Thread Catcher Tutorial

I am a bit distractable when I'm making a quilt and I'm not working on the fun part. So this weekend I made a thread catcher...then I decided to make another on because I thought it might be fun to make a tutorial about it. Here is the first one I made in use. I made a few changes the second time I made it and that is the one you will see in the tutorial. It works well with my magnetic pin cushion. I found a tutorial that inspired me this one in particular but I don't use a regular pin cushion, so here we go.








You will need:

• lining and outer fabric, a fat quarter will be more than enough of each
• a plastic ring cut from a container. Mine happens to be from a quart size greek yogurt container. Cut about 1/2 inch wide
• a tile for a weight. I had a square one, so I used it. Another site talked about a subway tile. Whatever you like will work. 
• non-slip shelf liner

First cut then measure the circumference of the ring you have for the top of the thread catcher. How large you cut your fabric for the bag and liner will be determined by the size of the ring. I sewed everything with a 1/4"seam allowance, so added 1/2 inch to each measurement. 

My ring measured 11 3/4 ", so I cut a piece 12 1/4 x 9 "

The pieces for the hangers were originally 3 1/2 x 3 1/2, but I ended up cutting off about an inch, so cut 2 of them 3 1/2 x 2 1/2

The piece for the tile pocket is determined by the size of the tile. You have to remember to make room for the thickness as well, so I just measured around the whole thing, then added about 5/8 inch for seams and a little wiggle room.  My tile measured 9 1/2 inches, so I cut a piece 10 1/4 x 5 3/4. That gave me room to tuck the edges in and catch them easily when closing the pocket after the tile is in the pocket.

You'll notice in the picture of the supplies that the tile has tape around the edges. The first thread catcher I made it was difficult to get the tile in the pocket...rough edges, so I covered them with tape and it was much easier to put the tile it.

On the left is a picture of the completed pocket. You'll see that that you have to include the hangers in the pocket. I didn't take a picture but I drew one.

The fabric rectangle is folded in half so it forms a square (sort of) the tabs are pinned between the two layers and the pocket is closed where the tabs are and down one side. The pocket is turned right side out and the side opposite the tabs will be open.

Next the inside and lining side seams should be sewn. Sew the entire length of the outside fabric, for the lining fabric leave about a 4 inch opening in the middle of the seam so when the whole thing is assembled you can turn it right side out. Press the seams open and center them in the middle of the side. Sew the bottom closed and press open. You'll need to clip each end so you can open the seam completely.

Press the side seam so you have a line to match the bottom seam. You need to make box corner as shown to make a flat bottom for the thread catcher. Do this for both the outside and the lining. Cut off the extra piece to remove excess fabric. Here is a great tutorial for box corners--scroll down a bit on the page. The bottom should look like the picture on the right when you're done.

Insert the still unfilled tile pocket into the outside thread catcher. The outside should be wrong side out. Next put the lining in, wrong side out (right sides of the thread catcher will be together, with the tile pocket sandwiched between.

You'll notice in the picture right, that I have about an inch of the hangers showing. I decided 3 1/2" was too long, so I cut them of later. Your hangers will be flush with the top of the thread catcher. Sew all the way around, making sure you catch the hangers fully.

 Now it's time to turn the whole thing right side out. Pull the whole shebang through the opening you left in the lining. Once you have it all out, push the outside into the lining. Next you're going to put the ring inside. Push it into the opening, and push the outside through it. You're going to put it up to the top of the bag and pin like crazy to keep it in place. Be sure to have the seam allowance all on the same side.


I sewed using a zipper foot. Because the plastic ring is soft you don't have to worry about a needle breaking. You can see I pinned from the outside, but sewed on the inside.




 You still have an opening in the lining, slip stitch that closed.

Put the tile in the tile pocket...






...fold the fabric from the top under the tile, then tuck the bottom in and....stitch  closed...done.

I hope you enjoyed this, I had fun making the thread catchers, and the tutorial.

Binding-how to make mitered corners

I have a friend who is just learning to quilt. She was asking how to add a binding, so I thought I'd write a short tutorial that she (and anyone else who wants to) can read. There are lots of pictures, and if you want to see them larger, just click on them.

Lay the strips together like this.

Measure the perimeter of your quilt. Cut enough strips to go all the way around the quilt with at least 20 inches extra. Cut strips across the width of your binding fabric. I cut between 2 1/4 to 2 1/2 inches widths. Lay the strips, right sides together, perpendicular as seen in the picture above.Sew the strips together on the bias to make one long strip.

The edge of the ruler shows where you will sew.

The selvedges would be the ends of the pieces you see above. I press the seams open so there is less bulk, but you can press to one side. Do this with each strip you previously cut until you have one long strip Press the long piece of biding in half, wrong sides together.

Start sewing the binding on the front side of the quilt. Start in the middle of one side and leave a tail about 6-10 inches long.

Note where the pin is. That is where I stopped before I came to the corner.

When you come to a corner, stop sewing 1/4 inch away from the end.

Fold the binding back so you have a 45 degree angle.

The folded edge on the right leaves just a touch of the fabric underneath showing.

Fold it back along the edge of the quilt. Make sure you can see just a tiny bit of the quilt where the fold is.

Begin sewing the binding down at the very edge. Sew the rest of the binding down, making sure to miter each corner as described above. When  you reach the side you started on, stop sewing down about 10-12 inches from where you began.

It's hard to see, but there is a gap between the two ends of the binding.

You left a tail at the beginning of your binding, cut it off at a 45 degree angle so that it is about in the middle of the gap. Notice that the fabric is opened up. Don't cut it while it's folded. (You wonder why I include that warning? I have done it wrong!)

It's difficult to see but I've put a pin where the first cut was made. Lay the second piece of binding underneath the first and make a small mark on the long piece where the cut was just made.

Add 1/2 inch for a seam allowance (the mark you see above was the exact length of the previously cut binding piece.) You have to add 1/2 inch, in this picture that means add 1/2 inch to the left of the mark. This piece of the binding is on the right side of the gap that was left, the previously cut piece was on the left side, so to add seam allowance add it to the left. Made sure to unfold the fabrics so you cut through only one thickness.

Pin the two ends, right sides together. Make sure you have a 1/4 inch seam allowance. You'll have to bunch up the quilt a bit to be able to pin and sew these two pieces together. Be sure you don't twist either of them.

Sew.

Trim the dog ears. Press the seam. I press it open because it is less bulky.

I usually just finger press it open but you can use an iron.

 

Here is the binding piece folded in half again. I put a pin where the seam is, so you could see it. The gap is now ready to have the rest of the binding attached to the quilt front.

 

I often press the binding from the front side away from the quilt so I can turn it to the back more easily

I sometimes use a foot that allows me to stitch in the ditch. It keeps the sewing very straight on the front. I don't mind that that thread shows. I don't sew my bindings down by hand for a couple of reasons. I don't like hand sewing. It takes too long. I expect these quilts will be hard used. I expect they'll be thrown in the washing machine and dryer and this is a much stronger attachment method.

Here is what the back looks like. It's not perfect, but it's perfect enough for me.

I hope that was helpful.

Tutorial: how to sew an accurate 1/4" seam

I am going to do a presentation for my guild at some point in the future, and part of it will be how to sew an accurate 1/4" seam. As practice I thought I would do a short tutorial here for anyone who has difficulty.

It took me a while to understand the importance of the "scant" quarter inch seam. When sewing simple blocks like a 9-patch, it isn't so crucial, as long as  your seams are consistent (and you're not participating in a swap!) If you are sewing a more complex block with half-square triangles and other shapes, if you don't sew an accurate seam, your pieces will not match and you will end up frustrated and decide that you just have to stick with the easy blocks. If your block has lots of pieces and more than just squares and triangles the effect of your personal seam allowance will be magnified.

Here is a short tutorial of how you can check your seam allowance, and adjust it so that it is an accurate quarter-inch.

1. cut three strips of fabric 1 1/2" wide and about 4-6 inches long. It will be easiest if there is some contrast between the middle strip and the edge strips.

 2. set your machine to sew your quarter inch seam.

Align the fabrics and sew.

...and press.

(here is my pressing stick, half of a 1" dowel)

I press all of my seams open, rather than to one side. I use a pressing stick, so I don't distort the fabric while I'm pressing. This means that the bulk of the fabric is distributed on each side of the seam which tends to take up less space.

If your middle strip doesn't measure 1 inch, you have to make some adjustments to your seam set-up.

If it is larger than 1", your seams are smaller than 1/4". Measure how much larger than 1" you have, divide by 2 and move your seam guide away from the needle that amount. For example, if your middle strip measure 1 1/4", you need to move your seam guide to the right (away from the needle) 1/8" (1/4 divided by 2 equals 1/8)

If you measure your middle strip and it is less than 1", you need to move your seam guide closer to the needle half the amount. If it measures 3/4", move the seam guide 1/8" closer to the needle.

If your machine allows you to move the  needle, you can move it instead of the seam guide. Make as many test strips as you need to get an accurate 1/4" seam. Make sure you note how your machine is set up so you can duplicate the settings.

Hope this is clear (and useful!)

Pillowcase Tote

I was killing some time today, and ended up browsing through the ARC. If you don't have one in your area, it's a used item shop. I found some pillowcases, and remembered I was supposed to make my SIL some bags for shopping--a long time ago. I found some that were heavy enough and I liked, so I bought 7--does this count as fabric I added to my stash??

When I got home, I googled and found this tutorial. It was fun and easy to follow and I ended up with a bag.

One down, 6 to go. They will be very sturdy, too, because they are made with two thicknesses of the pillowcase. The handles match because you use part of the case for the handles--what could be better?! And because there was a bit of scalloped edging on the top of the case, there is some here for extra decoration.
Here is another one I just finished--what fun!

Thank you Regina

Fabric Bowl Tutorial

My quilt guild had a woman come and demonstrate how to make fabric bowls and I felt inspired. However, the way I made this bowl, and the way that was demonstrated have very little in common. I found a description of how to make your own bowl pattern from here. This was posted in 2004 so obviously it isn’t new.

You have to use a bit of math—but if you put your measurements in where I tell you to, and use a calculator you will be able to make your own bowls too.

I also found the site of Hilde Morin and that’s what inspired me finish the bowl the way I did—so here’s a tutorial so you can make your own if you want.

You will need:

a bowl the size and shape you like
measuring tape
calculator
paper and pencil
a compass / divider (that’s the thing you can draw circles with that has a point on one end and a pencil on the other)
heavy duty interfacing (mine doesn’t iron on)
sewing machine
craft glue stick
scraps of fabric
lots of thread

First, find a bowl about the size and shape you like and would like to make. I wanted to make a smaller bowl to put odds and ends in, so I found a glass bowl in my cupboard. Once you’ve found the bowl, turn it upside down and measure from rim to rim across the middle as shown here.

Write that measurement down and label it “diameter”. Mine was 8 1/4"

Next use a tape measure and measure around the rim of the bowl—all the way around. You might need some help, or you can use tape. If you turn the bowl upside down (I just figured that out!) it might be easier to measure.

Write that measurement down and label it “my circumference”. Mine was 19”. I know some of you are having chest pains and your eyesight is blurring. Math anxiety strikes again!! I know you’re thinking—“But I can’t do Geometry!”. You don’t have to—yay!

Now is the time to get out your calculator. You have one on your computer if you don’t have one in your junk drawer. (Does everyone have a junk drawer, or was that unique to my growing up? I still have one, by the way.)

Take the number you wrote down and labeled “diameter” and multiply it by 3.1416. My diameter was 8 1/4 inches, so I multiplied 3.1416 x 8.25 and got 25.9 inches. This is the circumference of the circle with a diameter of 8 1/4 inches.

When I measured around the rim of my bowl, I got 19 inches (more or less). You don’t have to be very exact here, so don’t worry.

Now, subtract “my circumference” from the circumference you got when you multiplied earlier (mine was 25.9 inches so I take 25.9-19 = 6.9 or almost 7). Write down this number and label it “dart total”. This tells you how much of the circle has to be removed (in darts) to make a bowl instead of a flat plate. So I will have to have darts that take away about 7 inches of the circle at the rim.

Now, to make a bowl, you make darts in the large circle you will cut, and then sew them back together. That’s how you get something flat to become rounded. That’s why we have darts in our blouses, because we’re not flat, we’re rounded. The size and shape of the dart will determine how the bowl will be rounded. If the darts have flat sides, the bowl will have straighter sides, if the darts are curved, the walls of the bowl will be curved.

Next, draw a circle on paper for a pattern. You’ll use that pattern later and pin it to the interfacing. Use the compass/dividers and measure half the measurement of the “diameter” of your model bowl. Mine was 8 1/4" so the measurement I used was 4 1/8”. You only need half the measurement because you are drawing from the middle and going around.

Next, measure the bottom of your bowl. Mine was 3”. Use the compass again and open half the diameter of the bottom. Mine opened to 1 1/2”. Put the pin end of the compass into the same hole that was formed when you drew the large circle and draw a small circle.

Now you have two circles, one inside the other. You should be able to see the pin hole. Draw a line through the pin hole from one side of the circle to the other. It doesn’t matter where you draw the first line. You’ve just drawn a diameter of a circle—yeah geometry!

Take one of your quilting rulers and draw another line from edge to edge. This one should also go through the pin hole in the center and make a 90 degree angle. That’s the angle you see in the corner of a piece of paper. If you use a quilting ruler, you will be able to see the line you drew first through the ruler. Put one of the lines on your ruler on that line and draw a + with the center being in the middle of the circle.

Now, using a quilting ruler again, draw lines exactly between those two lines. You’ll use the 45 degree lines on your ruler this time, and then one more time. You’ll end up with 4 lines going from edge to edge across the circle, all going through the middle of the circle where you first made the pin hole to draw the circle.

Now you get to decide what shape the darts will be, and so, what shape the bowl will be. My darts were a little curved, so my bowl has curved sides. If I wanted the sides more straight like my model bowl, I would have used straight sided darts.

To decide how big to make each dart, you have to see what the difference is between “my circumference” and the circumference of the circle. When I subtracted I got 7”. Because the bowl has 8 darts, divide (get the calculator out) “dart total”—mine was 7” divided by 8 equals .875 or 7/8”. I didn’t want to have to be that exact, so I just made it 1” per dart, or 8” total. Remember, no one is going to wear the bowl, so it doesn’t have to fit the measurements you took—be a little relaxed and it will stay fun.

To make a dart, you have to take out some of the circle on BOTH sides of the line you drew. So take your dart measurement (mine was 1”) and divide it by 2 (because the dart has two halves). So on each side of the lines I drew earlier through the center of the circles I will measure 1/2" and make a dot on the outer edge of the large circle. This is how big my dart will be.

Now, draw a line from the dot almost to the bottom of the bowl (that small circle you drew earlier inside the big one). I drew mine about 1/4 inch from the bottom. Remember, this isn’t rocket science so there isn’t an exact place—just a little. Do this on all 8 lines. You just drew the darts.

If you drew this pattern on paper, pin it to the interfacing and cut it out. I used a rotary cutter, but you could certainly use scissors. Cut around the outside of the large circle, then cut out the darts. Because the interfacing is thick, you don’t want more than one layer, so cut the darts out—trust me.

Transfer the circle that is the bottom onto the interfacing so you can see the circle. I used the compass and drew the circle in pencil. You need this so the bottom will be sort of flat.

Now using a zig-zag stitch, sew around the bottom circle. I used grey thread so you could see it, but I think on the next one I’ll use white so there’s no chance it will show through the fabric I decorate the bowl with.

Now comes the fun part. You are going to sew the darts together and make a bowl. Start at the circle you just sewed for the bottom. Even though the darts don’t go all the way to that line, start there anyway. Make your zig-zag stitch wide enough to catch the interfacing on both sides of the dart and hold them together. I set mine on 4, that’s as wide as mine goes. I didn’t worry about having a perfect satin stitch—I just did a close zig-zag. Pull the sides of the dart together as you sew, so they meet, and sew over them It’s not hard at all. Do this for every dart. When you’ve sewn all the darts together you have a bowl!

Now—decorate it. I used bits of fabric I had laying around and a craft glue stick. I only used the glue on the outside because I was in a hurry, but next time I’ll use it on both sides. I put fabric all over the outside first, (including the bottom) then using variegated thread and a straight stitch, I started at the rim and sewed round and round and round and round and …well you get the idea until all the outside fabric was held down. You don’t have to sew a whole lot, because the outside will get stitched down more when you sew the insides down.

Put fabric all over the inside (I will use glue next time) and when none of the interfacing is showing, sew round and round and round and…from the rim to the center, then back out, then back in (it’s like the hokey pokey—that’s what it’s all about) until you feel like you’re done.

Next I used the same variegated thread and this time I did sew a satin stitch around the rim—I did it twice to cover really well—to finish it off!

Tah Dah!! A bowl.

Wow, it took longer to write this than it did to make the bowl. This is the first tutorial I’ve written, so please let me know if something isn’t clear.

Here is another one I made this morning--this one is a little small so was a bit difficult to sew inside, but it still worked.

Hope you enjoy it